CLOCK TOWER: This building was part of St Paul's Church, built in 1852, and would call parishoners to church on a Sunday morning. After all these decades both the clock and bells still work. Malmesbury has a group of bellringers who regularly practice here, they also perform at events like weddings for the neighbouring Abbey.
Where to go from here.
If you head through The Birdcage you come out in Malmesbury town centre... also known as The Market Cross. We'll come back to this later, first I think it's time to introduce you to Malmesbury's greatest possession, the Abbey remains. Turn left through the ancient, stone arch.
MALMESBURY ABBEY
Here lies the remains of one of England's most important religious buildings... Malmesbury Abbey.
Brief History.
We're going to start right back in the year 639 AD. This was the year Aldhelm was born. Documents show he was extremely clever and could speak Greek, Latin and read Hebrew. This birth coincided with the spread of Christianity. Aldhelm was a big believer in the Old Testament and at just 21 he set out to find himself his own place to spread the word.
In those days there were three important factors to creating a new town. First, does it have good roads. Several Roman roads met in and around Malmesbury such as the Fosseway which links Cornwall to Coventry. Second, does it have a water and food supply; That's a definite 'Yes' as Malmesbury is pretty much surrounded by water... and even has it's own spring, there were people living here previously so there must have been meat and fruit here. Thirdly, does it have good defences. In those days you couldn't get better than finding a large, knoll shaped hill surrounded by a natural moat. Malmesbury had everything which was needed to create a new town.
Photographer unknown. This was probably taken in the 1930's following renovation work to rebuild parts of the West Side.
In 672 Aldhelm became the 'Abbot of Mealdumesburg Monastery'. (A couple of years before the foundation of Bath Abbey!). Aldhelm lived here for the rest of his life (709). In this time he built the world's first organ (that was documented). He also found fame as a poet. It's also thought he could play the pipes and harp.
Fast forwarding to 880 now. The rule of King Alfred the Great, who granted Malmesbury an official charter mark (although no hard evidence has ever been prodcued to back this up). Despite a lack of evidence, the town is still publicized as England's oldest borough. During this time Christianity had spread across Europe like wildfire and the original Monastery in Malmesbury was considered so grand and purposeful that historians now believe it was the third most significant church in the UK (behind Winchester and Cantebury).
1010 is also a very important year. This is the time Brother Elmer, a monk at Malmesbury Monastery, made himself some wings, and jumped off the top of the building. He flew 200 feet - that's the earliest recorded human flight.
Building techniques weren't all that special back in the seventh century, so the Monastery fell into decay. It was replaced by Malmesbury Abbey which was completed in 1180. The remains which stand today have been there for well over eight hundred years! This building was phenomenal in it's original form - today it is just a fraction the size. It's spire was an impressive 404 feet tall - but this toppled around 1500 just before Henry VIII took to the throne. After this war-torn time, the spire was rebuilt in 1590 even taller than ever, an estimated 427 feet (that's higher than Salisbury Cathedral!)
What is now the main entrance into the abbey
All was safe until Oliver Cromwell invaded Malmesbury in 1659. His men were fighting against Catholicism so this was an obvious target. He toppled the new spire and the west side of the Abbey. During the reign of George III in 1790, the main gate of the Abbey was demolished (this would have been around the site of where Abbey House Gardens stands today. The remaining stonework of the Abbey is all that is left following centuries or war, disease and fire. It wasn't until 1928 that money was raised to restore and renovate what was left of the building.
Now, for the first time in 800 years there is talk of extending the Abbey. An ambitious plan to create a visitor centre, toilet facilities and an education centre to the west end of the remains is currently being finalizes. Quite where the money is going to come from for this project remains to be seen.
Just one final little piece of history to look out for as you walk through the Abbey graveyard. In 1703 occured one of Malmesbury's most famous, freak accidents. A chambermaid in the town was mauled to death by a tiger which escaped from a travelling circus. Hannah Tywnnoy was 33 and was buried at the front of the Abbey - she went down in history as the first person to be killed by a tiger in the United Kingdom.
What's there today?
The Abbey remains stand battered and bruised, still watching over the town just like the Monastery would have in 675. As you walk up to the front (or south face) of the Abbey, you'll pass many tombstones. There is an empty tomb outside the Abbey door, next to a number of floor plaques to show who is buried underneath. Walking into the building you'll come to one of the finest examples of wall sculpture for it's time (below). There are near-identical depictions of the Last Supper carved into the walls on both sides. Through the main entrance and you're into the naval. Please remember that this church is still used today so respect any services which are being held. If nothing's taking place you can walk around the church to see more tombs and plaques. Don't miss the ceiling, stained glass windows and ancient documents. There's also a souvenir shop here. Close to where you enter the Abbey there are some stairs leading to an exhibition room.
The stone steps are typical of the time and are spiralling, uneven and narrow. At the top you'll be met with some of the finest examples of history anywhere can offer, such as a handwritten and illustrated Bible, written hundreds of years back by the monks of the town. There's also a collection of drawings and photographs of how the Abbey has changed over the centuries.
Extra information
THE GROUNDS are closed during weekend nights
Free entry but donations are much appreciated.
No dogs. Large tour groups are welcome.
Where to go from here.
Once you've taken in everything the Abbey has to offer, head back up the path you came in on, (thinking of how many soldiers, monks, armies, residents and tourists have walked on those stones) back into the Town Centre. The first sight you'll see is the Market Cross.
THE MARKET
CROSS
Every town has a landmark in the centre; a meeting place for residents... Malmesbury had to go one step further.
Brief History
More than five hundred years ago, around 1490, it was decided that Malmesbury needed a new, central meeting point. Somewhere for locals to meet up and for traders to take shelter from the rain. The result was an octoganal structure with two entrances, six 'windows' to sit in and seating around a central pillar (above). The Market Cross was built right at the top of the High Street and, despite it's age, is holding up well against modern age pollution. If you look above the main structure you'll see gargoyles, a sundial and other subtle statues which have all survived the test of time.
What's there today?
The Market Cross is still fulfilling it's original role of being a meeting place. It is still used by local groups to host events like cake stalls from getting soaked in the rain. It is also the site of a fortnightly Farmer's Market which is held on Sunday mornings. At the start of 2005, English Heritage spruced up the structure, restoring some of it's fragile characteristics and cleaning muck and - dare I say - graffiti from the centuries old stonework.
Where to go from here.
As you're in the centre of town, this would be a golden opportunity to take in the High Street. As you'd expect Malmesbury manages to keep a perfect mix of family run businesses with international giants. There's also a real mic of buildings - ancient stone fascias are neighbours to modern design fronts thanks to the way Malmesbury High Street has developed and regenerated over the past decades. You will find a couple of café's in the centre, as well as a handful of shops selling souvenirs from postcards to locally produced jams and pickles. When you've done you're shopping, head back to the Market Cross and turn right onto Oxford Street. At the end of the road are some toilets, but if you turn right after the Guild Hall pub, you'll find the town's Tourist Information office on your left.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Always handy to know where this building is. Although I hope they won't contradict everything we've written on this page!
Brief History
Tourist Information is in the town's Civic Building which includes council chambers, community hall and museum. Despite it's grand appearance, this part of the building is relatively new and is less than a hundred years old.
Extra Information
OPEN ALL YEAR - Times may vary - 01666 823748
Where to go from here.
The next port of call is just round the corner. Turn left out of the Tourist Information office and left again. You'll then come to Athelstan Museum which is also based in the Civic Offices.
ATHELSTAN MUSEUM
You'd expect a town of Malmesbury's calibre to have a museum heaped full of interesting history... you'd be right.
Brief History and what's there now
Athelstan Museum is in the older part of the Civic Hall, this building was constructed in 1854. The museum has only been part of Malmesbury for the past few decades, but still has a wealthy batch of exhibits to show. There are plenty of photos, drawings and sketches of the town, the biggest feature has to be what's believed to be England's first fire engine; which was brought into service in Malmesbury back in 1670.
Extra Information
10.30 - 4.30 Apr to Oct -- 11.30 - 3.30 Nov - Mar
FREE to enter but donations welcome - 01666 829258
Where to go from here.
Head back to the High Street by walking through the car park and following the road around to the right. Turn left down the High Street, you'll come to another one of Malmesbury's Gates. The South Gate (below) is at the junction of King's Wall. Follow the High Street down to St John's Street.
MALMESBURY ALMSHOUSES
alms (amz) 'relief given out of pity to the poor'
Not 100% true in Malmesbury's case, but it's still a good story to tell.
Brief History
It was right back in 941 that King Athelstan (England's first all-ruling monarch) died and was buried at Malmesbury Abbey. He lived in the town and before he died gave ten pounds to the 'school' for the benefit of the townsfolk. He also gave away what is now known as the Almshouses, for the people of the town. The Almshouses were rebuilt in 1594 and a plaque quoting King Athelstan's speech was encased into the end of the three buildings (below). When we say he gave things to the
townsfolk, Malmesbury operated under a corporation made up of hereditary residents of the town. Athelstan also gave them King's Heath (which is sometimes referred to incorrectly as Malmesbury Common). This corporation is still alive today, although now that we have a proper government and local authority system, the Old Corporation has very limited powers and is now officially recognized as a charity. The group of 100+ hereditary 'Jackdaws' now do little more than collect rents from their properties (including the Almshouses), maintaining the buildings and contributing to local causes.
What's there today?
The Almshouses are still standing at the front of St John's Street, and are still rented out to people by the Old Corportion. They were renovated in the 1950's to make them suitable for living in following years of dereliction.
Where to go from here.
Just past the Almshouses in St Johns Street is an archway, this leads to Malmesbury Courthouse. It also takes you around to the back (or entrance) to the Almshouses and St John's Courtyard.
MALMESBURY COURTHOUSE
When Malmesbury had a Monastery and resident Monarch, we needed a courthouse. Now it's just part of our history.
Brief History
This is one of Malmesbury's oldest buildings. The Courthouse is no longer used for official police business and is now used as the meeting place for Malmesbury's Old Corporation.
What's there today?
You'll only be let in to the Court House on official town tours so you should get in touch with Tourist Information about that. The inside of the building has been left nearly untouched over the centuries. The Chair of the court still sits on a genuine woolsack cushion. Hanging above where the Chair sits, are a set of genuine Royal Arms given to the town by King William III and Queen Mary II who were joint monarchs at the time.
Where to go from here.
Two options here depending on the weather conditions. If it's a wet or winter's day we recommend turning heading back uphill into the town centre. If you like rambling and the ground has been dry fopr a week or two, you can carry on along St John's Street to Malmesbury Bowls Club. Just past the green on your left is a footpath which will take you onto another riverwalk.
BASKERVILLE TO HOLLOWAY
To most people this is just a walk through two fields. But you'll know differently after you've read this piece.
Brief History and what's there today.
Just as you walk over the wooden bridge with the Avon flowing underneath, you'll notice a steep hill with some stonework close to the top (above). That stonework is all that remains of Malmesbury's manmade barrier - the town wall. The eight foot high barrier was built around 1100 and circled the town with just four entrances. It's thanks to this structure that so much of Malmesbury's history has survived for us today. Amazingly, archeaologists recently managed to prove that this wall was the same that stood there some 900 years ago, and so it was renovated in 2002 so that it is clearly visible from this walkway.
At the end of the first field, there's a strange tower, about twelve foot tall, on the right hand side. This is what remains of a bridge which was used by the Malmesbury Railway. All of the track and most of the bridges and tunnels were destroyed in the fifties. This is the clearest structure left (other than the engine houses in Station Yard) that Malmesbury was once a home of the railway. Follow the footpath around to the base of Holloway Hill, and the Spice Merchant restaurant.
Where to go from here.
If the fields were a bit mushy, it's best to turn left and head up Holloway Hill, through the East Gate (another section of cobbled road complete with historical plaque) and back into the centre of town. However, if the ground is dry you can take to another footpath which runs to the left hand side of the restaurant car park. This takes you along Conygar's Mead.
CONYGAR'S MEAD
Continuing one of Malmesbury's most charming walks. This'll take you straight back to Square One.
Brief History and what's there today.
Conygar's Mead is a nature reserve which follows the path of the River Avon. This area of land is looked after by the Malmesbury River Valleys Trust who take great pride and care in maintaining Malmesbury's riverwalks. There are a couple of different paths you can take here, all should lead you to the same spot. Before the path heads away from the river, look over to the far side, and you might be able to see another sign of the railway... an abandoned railway tunnel. Believe it or not, until 2002 the Malmesbury Film Society were using this tunnel to show films to movie-fans in the town, (even though this could end up four foot underwater during the flooding season, even in summertime the easiest way of getting to the tunnel is by boat!) Further along the walk, you'll find yourself alongside Abbey House Gardens.
Where to go from here.
At the end of Conygar's Mead is the Station Yard car park, which is where we started our tour of Malmesbury. You can turn right at the end of this walk, to head up Worthey's Hill for some cracking views. You can head past the cricket club, down the other side of the hill and that takes you to the other side of the car park.
There are plenty of other walkways and places of interest in the area, this is just a crash-course style approach for the one-day-only traveller. If you're planning to stay in Malmesbury longer, see our other pages for more details. Tourist Information will be able to answer any questions who have about Malmesbury's features.